It’s been almost a month now since I applied for my visa to India, and I can already tell that the country’s notorious bureaucracy is going to be a thorn in my side for the next several months. Like with most formal visa requests, the Indian Consulate took hostage the one document this traveler never dares to go without – my passport. There is a tremendous amount of anxiety whenever I’m separated from my little passport; since my very first day back in Faro, Portugal over eight months ago, that document has remained with me at all times. To backpackers, our passport is a natural extension of our bodies and not only serves as our global form of identification, but as a sacred repository for our badges of honor (aka passport stamps). Thankfully, my time in “travel purgatory” is finally at an end and the Indian consulate returned my passport. I am once again free to travel to my heart’s content!
Of all the countries in the world where I didn’t want to be without my passport, Israel ranks near the top of the list. Even though I’ve spent a month in in this country, I sadly have not visited regions like the Golan Heights out of security concerns or the West Bank since I would have issues crossing the border. Instead, I just spent my time in Tel Aviv twiddling my thumbs, writing furiously, and patiently waiting for my visa to go through. I felt like a caged bird and before long people began to look at me as the hostel pet.
Thanks for the philosophical talks and harassment Meliya!
When I went to pick up my passport, I felt like a child running to see what presents awaited him under the Christmas tree. I knew exactly what my gift was - a beaten up old passport – but I was thrilled to finally cradle it in my arms once again like a mother with her newborn child. Never have I derived such joy from a government issued document in my entire life. I savored the feel of the old tattered edges of the dark blue cover, the sight of the 28 horribly warped pages, the faded glimmering word “PASSPORT” printed on the cover, and the erratic stamps adorning its light-blue, patriotic pages. I was ecstatic to finally be reunited with my lost love and mortified that the sick individuals over at the Indian Consulate defiled my holiest of travel documents with a staple right through the front cover! Oh the humanity!
Okay, maybe I’m a bit too attached.
With my passport in hand I quickly returned home to my hostel and began organizing the next few days of my trip. I can't even begin to describe the excitement of figuring out logistics for my next city, finding the bus, and the joy of reaching some new, unexplored region of the world. To make matters even better, I am now scheduled to meet up with two good friends from college, Sean and Will, in Abu Dhabi before heading off to India! Normally, I like to mull over my plans for the next city a bit, but this time I booked everything in a matter of hours. I found a bus down to Eilat where I would cross into Jordan on my way to Petra and the next morning I was out of the hostel by 10:00 am and out of Tel Aviv an hour later.
There was no time to waste!
All things considered, Tel Aviv is a great city to be stuck in even if it’s a bit on the expensive side, but damn if I’m not happy to finally be on the road again! During my confinement in Tel Aviv, I wandered around the city occasionally, but after two weeks I accomplished everything that I set out to do. Being forced to remain in one place for such an extended period of time helped to put things in perspective and made me appreciate the simple joy of moving between cities like I felt back in Portugal. I’ve been traveling for so long that this kind of lifestyle feels “normal” even though it is anything but. My time in Tel Aviv allowed me to reacquaint myself with a sedentary, static life in a city. While it’s not exactly what I wanted on this trip, it was a great experience nonetheless. Now I’m back in business and on my way to Eliat!
This is what I live for! I’m back in my element!
The city of Eilat is a tourist destination on the southern coast of Israel that reminds me a lot of Panama City, Florida. This beach town is a popular vacation spot among local Israelis and the coastline is full of upscale resorts and hotels none of which I can afford. The main promenade through the city is very well kept and makes for a delightful stroll even though it is lined with tacky souvenir stops. Eilat appears to have been built from the ground up specifically to cater to tourists and unlike Antalya, it seems pretty much devoid of anything historical. There isn’t anything inherently bad about Eilat and I can see the draw of the city, but for a budget backpacker trying to get a feel for a country I wouldn’t recommend it.
Sunset in Eilat is a particularly stunning experience as the orange-red sun illuminates the already red tinged mountains off on the Jordanian side of the Red Sea. Even though the temperature is cool and comfortable, the mountains appear on fire as the dry stone radiates a warm orange aurora. While beautiful, the sight was slightly marred by the numerous fishing vessels and a lopsided tanker floating just off the coast. As I stand on the beach overlooking the Red Sea I can see the city of Aqaba in neighboring Jordan to my left and Egypt off in the distance before me. While I’m excited to visit Jordan, for the second time in my life now I’m skipping out on visiting Egypt. In my earlier posts I referenced how Switzerland and Germany were “the ones that got away” of my first trip through Europe, but I think Egypt now holds the title for this second trip.
I’m not too broken up about it though; the pyramids have been around for thousands of years so I’m pretty sure they will still be there next time I come around.
After taking in the sunset and wandering around the coast I crossed paths with another man as I made my way back to my hostel. He wore a plain black shirt made out synthetic material, light brown kaki cargo shorts, running shoes, and a small backpack. I immediately pegged him as an experienced backpacker - that’s the exact same gear I carry with me! After the usual introductions, I found out my new friend, Thomas, was not only an experienced backpacker, but also heading to Petra, staying at the same hostel, and (if you can believe it) even had the same dorm room!
Thomas is originally from Poland but has lived in Germany for the better part of his life. His insight into Eastern European culture as well as his perspective on politics and economics fascinates me. We talked for hours about the issues currently facing Ukraine, the pros/cons of capitalism verses communism, and he even shed some light on motives behind Russia’s actions in the world. Since Thomas has visited Russian on a few occasions and spent some time in Ukraine I was thrilled to learn more from him. While he’s not Russia’s biggest fan, he does believe the country is misunderstood my many people. I can sympathize with him because in the US we really only ever hear one perspective on the matter that is heavily influenced by the Cold War. I can’t think of a better way to spend the evening, and I’m forever grateful for Thomas’s insight!
I’m so happy to be on the road again and tomorrow I will cross into country number 18 on my trip – Jordan. Days like this that are full of excitement, new cities, and new friends always brings to mind a song called “The Nights” by Avicii. A friend of mine back in the US, Alexa Coso, first introduced me to the track when I was in Göreme, Turkey, but the song has now come to symbolize my absurd trip across the world. I love the upbeat tempo and the uplifting melodies, but it’s the lyrics of the song that bring me to tears every time I listen to it. As I make my way to Petra through the Negev Desert in Israel, Eilat, and Aqaba the song plays on repeat and I can’t help but smile every time I hear it.
"One day my father—he told me, 'Son, don't let it slip away.' He took me in his arms, I heard him say, "When you get older, your wild heart will live for younger days. Think of me if ever you're afraid.”
"He said, 'One day you'll leave this world behind, so live a life you will remember.' My father told me when I was just a child; these are the nights that never die."
"When thunderclouds start pouring down, light a fire they can't put out. Carve your name into those shining stars. He said, 'Go venture far beyond these shores. Don't forsake this life of yours. I'll guide you home no matter where you are.'
My trip hasn’t even finished yet, but I already know I will live for these travel days when I get older. I’m so absurdly lucky to be here.
Onwards to Petra!